The making of a channel set Eternity ring

Posted by Jon - 27 November 2017

You could say that a channel-set eternity ring does exactly what it says in the name. It holds the diamonds in a channel, giving the illusion that all the stones touch, and a really pleasing run of diamonds around the ring. In reality, the stones should never touch, and each diamond is held by the strips of metal on either side of the channel. There is a classic simplicity to the design, it sits with other setting styles in a really harmonious way, without fighting or stealing the show.

The first stage of making is all about planning. With this ring, two or three plans were drawn to make sure all the stones would be at the right height, with the right amount of metal left to set them safely. Only then are the holes drilled - one for each stone.

The next stage is to carefully open the size of the holes, while leaving smaller, neat backholes on the inside.

Now things get really serious, as we've gone as far as we can with our round burrs (cutting tools). We then rely on using the side of our piercing-saw blade like a file, along with burrs and hand engravers, to cut, by hand, the round hole into a square one.

    

So we end up, after many hours of meticulous work, with this frame - leaving perfect compartments in the metal to sit each stone down into. They need to sit beneath the edges of platinum - which will be pushed over the stones, section by section, as the stones are seated round the ring.

After some time trimming the setting edge to make it neat, carefully filing and removing all the marks with many grades of emery paper, and finally expertly polishing, we end up with this rather gorgeous and precise thing of beauty. 

Like all eternity rings, the diamonds don't have to go all the way round the ring, however, if they do, it is definitily a bespoke process. This project was one such commission, and suffice to say, Julie loved her ring. She was really pleased that she chose the carre cuts - such an elegant and understated choice, and more unusual.

And how else do our rings differ from the normal...? They're made with real care and attention to detail - as well as built-in strength and security. Commercially made channel set rings, really do just have a channel, machined in to the metal. Before long the stones can start to move around and bunch. With our rings we cut a space for each stone individuality, so not only is there more lateral strength, in the form of ribs between each diamond, they will stay where we put them!

Thanks for reading all,

Jon

 

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